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From Luoyang to Laojun Mountain: A Solo Traveler’s Complete Daoist Pilgrimage

Golden temples of Laojun Mountain at sunset

The Journey Begins: Leaving Luoyang

On April 26th, I bid farewell to my friends Mr. and Mrs. Li in Luoyang, embarking on the 150km journey southwest to Laojun Mountain (老君山) in Luanchuan County. This sacred peak (2,200m elevation) forms part of the Qinling Mountains’ Funiu Range and holds deep significance as the legendary retreat where Laozi (honored as Lord Lao the Supreme, 太上老君), the founder of Daoism, secluded himself during the Spring and Autumn period.

Winding roads through Funiu Mountain range

The winding Funiu Mountain Ecological Tourism Road

Historical Significance

Originally named Jingshi Mountain, its transformation began when Emperor Taizong of Tang renamed it in 637 AD after commissioning the Iron-Roofed Temple. The mountain reached its zenith in 1603 when the Ming Dynasty declared it “First Among China’s Famous Mountains” – the only range ever granted this imperial title.

Unexpected Detours

My route passed through Song County, where I encountered two unanticipated obstacles:

  1. Road Construction: A major crossroads with half the road blocked for repaving caused significant delays
  2. Market Day Chaos: The “Songzhou Ancient City” area (disappointingly modern) was hosting a bustling street market with terrible traffic discipline

Traffic Observations

  • Song County: New wide roads rendered useless by chaotic management – electric bikes ignoring lanes, vehicles parked haphazardly
  • Luanchuan: Orderly and clean by comparison, with proper traffic flow

First Impressions: Luanchuan Museum

Arriving at Mount Laojun’s entrance, I detoured to the Luanchuan Museum, where two peculiar policies stood out:

The remarkable Water Cloud Stone at museum entrance

Unusual Museum Rules

  • Shoe Covers: Mandatory 2¥ purchase despite available discarded ones
  • Photography Ban: Particularly enforced on the striking black Laozi statue (which I photographed anyway when unobserved)

The museum primarily displayed mineral specimens – interesting but not extraordinary. The magnificent “Water Cloud Stone” at the entrance, with its natural flowing patterns, proved more memorable than the exhibits.

Preparing for the Ascent

After studying numerous guides, I parked at the closest lot to the cable car station. Evening observations:

Mount Laojun view at dusk from drone
  • Dined at the food street (25¥ for mediocre beef soup and overly salty tea egg)
  • Discovered the campground’s strict no-campfire policy
  • Captured limited drone footage due to positioning

The White Squirrel Encounter

An unforgettable wildlife moment occurred when a white squirrel (initially mistaken for a small dog) approached me with astonishing boldness:

“It climbed my pants leg to chest height, leaving a distinct musky odor before attempting to scale my back. Only vigorous shaking and loud shouts discouraged its advance.”

Summit Day: April 27th

Opting for both cable car stages (210¥ total), I prioritized knee preservation over hiking bravado. Notable observations:

View from Mount Laojun cable car

Fellow Travelers

  • Deaf Companions: Surprisingly vocal pair in my first cable car, their vocalizations more distracting than typical conversation
  • Wheelchair Adventurer: Witnessed a determined disabled traveler maneuvering through inaccessible checkpoints only to face impassable cliffside stairs

The Ten-Mile Gallery

This breathtaking cliffside walkway offered stunning vistas despite increasing crowds:

The Golden Summit

Reaching the Daoist temple complex justified every effort. The iconic line “Traveled far to witness this heavenly vision” perfectly captures the moment when the golden temples emerged from the mist.

Drone Perspectives

After confirming permission at the ticket office, I captured aerial views of the magnificent complex:

Rapid Weather Change

The mountain’s temperamental climate became apparent as conditions deteriorated:

  • Initial warmth turned to piercing cold (justified my layered clothing)
  • Disappearing clouds gave way to rain and gusty winds
  • Abandoned sunset plans due to hypothermia risk

Descent and Unexpected Hot Springs

My exit strategy proved fortuitous:

Wet mountain roads at dusk
  1. Chose the Ye County route as darkness fell
  2. Diverted to Highway G36 at precisely the right moment
  3. Discovered the unconventional Yaoshan Service Area (pre-toll station)

The service station attendant’s revelation about nearby 5¥ hot springs (regrettably discovered post-shower) provided perfect closure to this adventurous day.

Key Takeaways for Future Visitors

Best Season Winter for snowscapes/summer for greenery (avoid May Day crowds)
Clothing Layers essential – summit can be 15°C colder than base
Photography Morning/evening light best; drones permitted with registration
Accessibility Wheelchair access limited beyond second cable car
Budget Notes Seniors 60+ save 100¥ entrance fee; bring snacks to avoid overpriced meals
Special Tip Watch for the bold white squirrels near parking areas!

Laojun Mountain delivers both natural grandeur and cultural depth. From the mischievous white squirrel to the awe-inspiring golden temples where Laozi himself once meditated, every element combines to create what Daoists might call a truly balanced travel experience – one that humbles and exhilarates in equal measure.

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